Gemstone Hardness Scale for Daily Wear: A Practical Guide When selecting jewelry for everyday use, durability is a key consideration
While beauty and meaning are important, a gemstone that scratches, chips, or loses its polish with daily exposure can lead to disappointment. This is where understanding the Mohs scale of mineral hardness becomes essential for any jewelry wearer or buyer.
What is the Mohs Hardness Scale?
Developed by German geologist Friedrich Mohs in 1812, the Mohs scale is a qualitative ordinal scale that measures a mineral’s resistance to scratching. It ranks minerals from 1 (softest) to 10 (hardest), using a set of reference minerals. A key principle: a mineral can scratch any mineral ranked lower than itself, and can be scratched by any mineral ranked higher.
For daily wear jewelry, hardness is crucial because it correlates with a gemstone’s ability to withstand the inevitable bumps, scrapes, and contact with common environmental abrasives like dust (which contains quartz particles at hardness 7).
The Gemstone Hardness Tiers for Daily Wear
Excellent for Daily Wear (Hardness 8-10)
These gems are highly resistant to scratches from most everyday hazards.
* Diamond (10): The hardest known natural material. Ideal for engagement rings and pieces meant to last generations.
* Moissanite (9.25): A brilliant lab-created gem, second only to diamond in hardness. An extremely durable choice.
* Sapphire & Ruby (9): Both are forms of corundum. Their exceptional hardness makes them classic, worry-free choices for rings and bracelets.
* Chrysoberyl (8.5): Including the color-change alexandrite, this is a very tough and durable gemstone.
* Topaz (8): A popular and affordable gem. While hard, it has perfect cleavage (a tendency to split along certain planes), so it should be protected from hard knocks.
Good for Daily Wear with Some Care (Hardness 7-8)
These stones are suitable for daily wear but are more susceptible to scratching over time, especially from quartz in dust. Protective settings (bezels) are advisable.
* Quartz Family (7): A massive family including:
* Amethyst, Citrine, Prasiolite
* Onyx, Agate, Jasper (cryptocrystalline quartz, often slightly tougher)
* Tourmaline (7-7.5): Available in every color. It has good wearability but can be sensitive to sudden temperature changes.
* Garnet (6.5-7.5): A robust gemstone family (like Almandine, Pyrope). Excellent for rings with a slightly protective setting.
* Peridot (6.5-7): A beautiful olive-green gem. It can be worn daily but is better suited for earrings or pendants than rings subject to heavy impact.
Requires Careful Wear (Hardness 6 and Below)
These beautiful stones are best reserved for occasional wear, earrings, pendants, or brooches—pieces less prone to impact and abrasion.
* Opal (5.5-6.5): Soft and can contain water, making it sensitive to knocks, temperature changes, and dehydration.
* Moonstone (6-6.5): Has a directional cleavage, making it vulnerable to cracking if struck.
* Turquoise (5-6): A porous gem that can be damaged by chemicals, cosmetics, and even skin oils over time.
* Lapis Lazuli (5-5.5): Often treated and can be scratched easily.
* Pearl (2.5-4.5) & Coral (3-4): Organic gems are very soft and sensitive to acids (perfume, sweat), heat, and dryness. They require the most care.
Hardness is Not the Whole Story:
Toughness and Stability
* Toughness: This refers to a gem’s resistance to chipping, breaking, or fracturing from a blow. Jadeite (hardness 6.5-7) is the champion of toughness—extremely difficult to break despite its moderate hardness.
* Cleavage: Some hard gems (like topaz and diamond) have planes of atomic weakness where they can split if struck at the right angle.
* Stability: Some gems are sensitive to light (amethyst can fade), heat (opal can crack), or chemicals (turquoise, pearl). Always research a gem’s specific care needs.
Practical Recommendations for Your Jewelry Box
Prioritize gems with a hardness of 8 or higher (Diamond, Sapphire, Ruby, Moissanite). For stones of 7-8 hardness (like Quartz or Garnet), consider a bezel setting that protects the girdle (edge) of the stone.
These see a lot of contact with surfaces. Stick to hardness 7 and above.
These are generally safer. You can confidently wear softer, more delicate stones like opals, pearls, and turquoise, as they are less exposed to direct impacts.
A good rule of thumb: If you can feel the grit when you run your finger along a dusty tabletop, that dust can scratch any gemstone below a 7 on the Mohs scale.
Conclusion
Choosing a gemstone for daily wear is a balance between aesthetics and practicality. By using the Mohs scale as your guide, you can make an informed decision that ensures your cherished jewelry remains beautiful for years to come. When in doubt, opt for harder stones for high-impact pieces, save the softer, more delicate beauties for protected settings or occasional wear, and always remove your jewelry during strenuous activities. With the right knowledge, you can wear your gems with confidence every day.